Sunday, June 12, 2011

Yellowstone National Park

Finally...the motherland of National Parks! I feel like I've finally graduated to the upper echelons of National Park visitors. Yellowstone was the first land protected by the U.S. government (est. 1872) for the "benefit and enjoyment of the people". And enjoy it we did.

We started out by getting our backcountry permits and visiting a few road side hydrothermal features, wildlife, and waterfalls. It was too late when we got to our trailhead to hike in that night, so we slept in the GD until the next morning, when we embarked on our two day backcountry hike. After emerging from the trail the next day, we did the typical Yellowstone-by-car route to see the hydrothermal events.

Documentary director Ken Burns is right; the national park system is undoubtedly one of America's best ideas. Below you will find visual evidence supporting this statement.














Yup...another park sign to put on our "life list" board!















Unlike us, the Green Dragon was loving the snow. Good thing because, in much of the park, snow cover was the norm. Like most of the country, the weather this winter was unusual in that they got a lot more snow than is typical. Because of that, our backcountry hiking options were limited to the northern part of the park due to the lower elevation and warmer temperatures.















Sweet waterfall picture in front of Lower Falls.



















The Yellowstone River winds its way through the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.















There really isn't anything cuter than a baby bison. Spring is calving season, so there were baby bison everywhere. It was amazing to see the bison roaming the plains and imagine what it was like back before the white people almost drove them to extinction. Before the reintroduction program initiated by YNP, there were only 23 identified bison in the entire Greater Yellowstone area.















Teetering on the edge of doom at Mammoth Hot Springs. Part of what makes Yellowstone so special is that it is the only place in the world to have all 4 kinds of hydrothermal activity: mudpots, geysers, hot springs, and steam vents. Although they are all caused by pretty different processes, they all occur because YNP sits right on top of a hot spot, an area where the mantle of the earth is very close to the crust bringing with it of course lots of heat. Heat causes conduction, convection, pressure build up, etc. Add gases, fissures, and groundwater and you've got a perfect recipe for some sweet hydrothermal action. And for some very uncouth noises: burps, belches, plops, hisses, and the noise of gas exiting a small hole (I think you get the idea).















On our backcountry hike into Blacktail Creek. We slept in the Green Dragon the night before to hit the trail early. Luckily, it gets light around 5:00 a.m. so it's not hard to get up early. We were instantly greeted by a bison herd, lots of gophers, and a few elk in the open rolling hills before descending into the Blacktail Creek valley and eventually into our site next to the Yellowstone River. We then set up camp, grabbed our day pack and set out on a 10 mile day hike up the Yellowstone River Valley.















Mike on our hike a little further down the Blacktail Creek before we decsended into the Yellowstone River Valley. It was only 5 miles to our campsite from the trailhead, but he's a champ and carrying most of the weight since my knee is not fully cooperating. These hikes have been the perfect artistic inspiration and training ground for the creation, improvement, and utilization of our bear songs. Let me tell you, these songs are pure gold. I'm thinking of recording all of them and selling them for people who need more creative inspiration on the trail besides clapping and saying "Hey bear!" Boring.















It's not a tumor! The elk and moose lose their antlers in the spring before growing them back during the summer in time for rutting season (when they play their male games of butting heads and antler wrestling to determine who will reign over a harem of female ungulates). Because there are so many elk in the park, the antlers are common. I thought I had a lot of weight on my head with my huge brain and long thick hair, but the moose antlers can weigh up to 50 lbs per antler!















Our backcountry site was near this alpine lake, Crevice Lake. We attempted some dusk animal watching at the lake, to no avail.















On our day hike we strumbled across this awesome rock outcrop higher up the side of the Yellowstone River Valley and proceeded to take a nap.



















Mike makes fun of me, but I absolutely love looking at National Park lodges. Their architectural style amazes me and is different than any other buildings I've ever seen. The Old Yellowstone Lodge was built in 1904 entirely of lodgepole pine harvested near the location. There are 5 stories, with a crows nest up at the very top where an orchestra used to play while people danced in the lobby below. How romantic is that?



















Old Faithful geyser is serious business for the YNP. There are hundreds and hundreds people anxiously awaiting this explosive action every 90 minutes. The parking was worse than downtown Austin. We happened to see it twice and it was pretty neat, but I was mostly impressed with the consistency of the timing between eruptions. There was a much more impressive geyser going off in eyesight (Riverside?) that looked taller and was much longer.















Opal Pool at Midway Geyer Basin. We saw Grand Prismatic Spring too, the huge one that is often shown from above because of its awesome colors, but it was too steamy to see much of anything except glimpses of color. The brilliant colors around the springs are due to thermophiles (oranges, pinks, and reds), algaes (greens and blues), and deposited sulpher (yellows). Add to that the blue from the water and you've got a pretty amazing color spectrum.















DOUBLE RAINBOW! Right over our campsite the last night in Yellowstone, at Mammoth.



















The original stone entrance at the North entrance to the park. It reads "for the benefit and enjoyment of the people".

We're off to Calgary, Alberta tonight to stay with an ultimate friend for the night before heading off on the Alcan for 3 days of solid driving to Alaska! Looking forward to a shower (we haven't showered in 5 days!) and washing clothes as well as a comfy warm bed.

Cara
Grand Teton National Park...Huge Boobs!

We started out Monday morning at around 5:15 a.m. and booked it to Denver in one day. It was awesome to be on the road again together with the Green Dragon. We stayed with our standard Denver billet, Matt Rutstein, my good friend from high school. Matt has shown us amazing hospitality in years past when we've come through Denver, and this year was no different. We went out to eat at a local sports bar with him and his girlfriend Crissna before crashing from the 16 hour drive and early morning rise.

Denver's weather was perfect in the morning, which made it even harder to leave in the morning, but Grand Teton NP and Alaska were not getting any closer so we headed north. [Peter...did I punctuate that sentence correctly?]
















Yet another NP sign to add to our life list bulletin board!
















The Grand Teton range which was created from uplift, one continental plate heading up and one heading down. Grand Teton was named by French fur trappers, which basically translates to "huge boob."















Picture for the grandparents in front of Jenny Lake.















Look out point above Phelps Lake our backcountry destination. We had plans to hike up Paintbrush Canyon, but when we arrived at the permit office they looked out the massive windows framing the snow covered Tetons and said it wasn't possible unless we had snow shoes and ice axes. We decided to hike the trail that was mostly snow free.

The weather was a bit of surprise. Whenever the sun would disappear behind rain clouds the temperature would drop into the 40ºs and 50ºs. When the sun was out, it was comfortably in the 60ºs. In the morning, it even snowed on us while we were eating breakfast. At night, the temperature fell to near freezing in the 30ºs. This was a good warm up to Alaska, but we are still hoping it is getting warmer as summer progresses.















Cara's natural lounge chair at Phelps Lake















The view of Death Canyon from our favorite huge sitting rock.















Breakfast with David and Laura

When preparing our dinner the first night we ran into our first backcountry snag. The gas canister sold to us by a reassuring REI employee did not fit our stove. Because we were only a few miles from our car it wasn't an emergency and would have just resulted in a few less than average meals. Lesson learned, always check your gear before heading out.

Instead of eating our planned cous cous and chick peas meal cold, we asked to borrow the stove of the only other hikers also at the lake and thus met two awesome people, David and Laura from Bloomington, Indiana. Laura turned out to be an ultimate player that played at IU and knew Noah B, and David turned out to be awesome and newly married to Laura. We had a great evening hanging on the huge sitting rock as night descended. Congratulations to our new Hoosier friends and thanks again for the use of your stove!

Animals sighted:
1. Black bear (200 yards up the hill from our campsite at Phelps Lake. Very cuddly at a safe distance.)
2. Moose (splashing along the opposite shore of Phelps Lake)
3. Marmots
4. the Orange eyes of ??? on our way back to our tent at night after hanging with David and Laura.

-T

Monday, May 30, 2011

Alaska...The Last Frontier!!!

In less than a week, Cara and I will be hopping in the Green Dragon to begin our road trip adventure north to Alaska. We have our gear ready and a pretty good plan. After traveling through European city after city last summer, we are ready to enjoy what mother nature has created and slow down the pace a bit.

Our first stop will be with Matt in Denver, Colorado. After just a night we are off to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons National Park for a short stay before heading north through the vastness of Canada.

Here we go open road!
-M